十万个为什么·科学阅读30篇（6）
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Why Do Ocean Waves Always Move Toward Shore?
为什么海浪总是向岸边移动？
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Waves start from wind blowing over open ocean water.海浪由风吹过开阔海面而产生。
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Energy travels across water, but water stays in place.能量在水中传播，但水本身基本不动。
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As waves reach shallow water near shore, they slow down.当海浪到达近岸浅水区时，速度会变慢。
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The wave top moves faster than the bottom part.波峰移动速度比波谷快。
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This makes the wave tip forward and break on land.这导致海浪前倾并冲上海滩。
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Gravity pulls the water back, but new waves keep coming.重力将海水拉回，但新的海浪持续涌来。
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Tides and storms can change wave strength and timing.潮汐和风暴会影响海浪的强度和时间。
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Waves shape beaches by moving sand slowly over time.海浪通过长期缓慢搬运沙子塑造海滩。