科学素养与生活应用·英语30篇（2）

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为何远离海岸的海浪反而更大，尽管风速并未增强

Ocean waves grow larger offshore due to wave dispersion, where longer-period swells travel faster than shorter ones.
As storms generate waves, energy spreads across a spectrum of frequencies and directions.
Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss.
Shorter, choppier waves dissipate quickly due to viscosity and surface tension effects.
Over days and thousands of kilometers, swells sort themselves by wavelength and speed.
This 'swell filtering' leaves only powerful, well-organized waves reaching distant coastlines.
Deep-water wave speed depends solely on period—not wind speed or local conditions.
Swell height builds further when converging wave trains constructively interfere offshore.
Surfers rely on buoy data showing swell period and direction to predict surf quality weeks ahead.
Climate models now track swell propagation to assess coastal erosion risks under changing storm patterns.