科学素养与生活应用·英语30篇（2）

30 / 30

已读 0 / 30 课

为何远离海岸的海浪反而更大，尽管风速并未增强

Ocean waves grow larger offshore due to wave dispersion, where longer-period swells travel faster than shorter ones.
As storms generate waves, energy spreads across a spectrum of frequencies and directions.
Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss.
Shorter, choppier waves dissipate quickly due to viscosity and surface tension effects.
Over days and thousands of kilometers, swells sort themselves by wavelength and speed.
This 'swell filtering' leaves only powerful, well-organized waves reaching distant coastlines.
Deep-water wave speed depends solely on period—not wind speed or local conditions.
Swell height builds further when converging wave trains constructively interfere offshore.
Surfers rely on buoy data showing swell period and direction to predict surf quality weeks ahead.
Climate models now track swell propagation to assess coastal erosion risks under changing storm patterns.

听 → 读 → 学表达 → 懂 → 今天会说这一句 → 跟读录音 → 自己说一句。

Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss. 低频涌浪在深水中传播效率高，能量损耗极小。
This 'swell filtering' leaves only powerful, well-organized waves reaching distant coastlines. 这种‘涌浪滤波’效应使抵达遥远海岸的只剩强劲、有序的波浪。
Swell height builds further when converging wave trains constructively interfere offshore. 当多列涌浪在离岸处发生相长干涉时，涌浪高度进一步增大。

这篇中文题目最接近哪一句？为何远离海岸的海浪反而更大，尽管风速并未增强一次学校运动会的通知一份超市购物清单

课文第一句的意思更接近？离岸越远，海浪越大，这是因为波浪频散效应：长周期涌浪比短周期涌浪传播更快。今天学校放假了。请把窗户打开。

这一课主要在讲什么？（看英文标题） Why Ocean Waves Grow Larger Far From Shore Despite No Wind Increase How to cook noodles A maths worksheet

Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss.

Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss.

第一版：录下来、回听、再听标准音。系统打分以后再加。

用今天的表达，自己说一句。

例子：Low-frequency swells propagate efficiently across deep water with minimal energy loss.