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Why Ocean Waves Grow Larger Far From Shore
为什么海浪在远离海岸处变得更大
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Waves get energy from wind blowing over open water for long distances.海浪从长距离吹过开阔水面的风中获取能量。
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This distance is called fetch, and longer fetch means bigger waves.这段距离称为‘风区’，风区越长，海浪越大。
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Deep water lets wave energy spread and build smoothly.深水能让波浪能量平稳扩散并增强。
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Near shore, friction with the seabed slows and shortens waves.靠近岸边时，海底摩擦会使海浪变慢、变短。
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Biggest waves form where strong winds blow steadily across wide oceans.最强劲的海浪形成于强风持续吹过广阔海洋的区域。
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Storms far out at sea can send giant waves toward land.远在海上的风暴可将巨浪推向陆地。
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Surfers watch ocean forecasts to find ideal wave conditions.冲浪者关注海洋预报，以寻找理想的海浪条件。
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Wave size depends on wind speed, time, and unobstructed water space.海浪大小取决于风速、风时及无障碍水域范围。