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Why Ocean Waves Get Bigger Near Shore
为什么海浪靠近岸边会变大
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Waves travel fast in deep ocean water with little friction.海浪在深海中传播迅速，阻力很小。
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As water gets shallower near land, the wave bottom slows down.靠近海岸时水变浅，波浪底部速度减慢。
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The top part keeps moving faster and piles up higher.上部仍较快移动，从而堆高。
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This makes waves grow taller and steeper before breaking.这使海浪在破碎前变得更高更陡。
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Energy stays the same, but height increases as speed drops.能量不变，但速度下降导致高度增加。
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Sandbars and rocks can focus wave energy in one spot.沙洲和岩石可将波浪能量汇聚到一点。
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Surfers watch these changes to catch perfect waves.冲浪者观察这些变化以捕捉理想浪形。
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Coastal engineers study this to build safer sea walls.海岸工程师研究此现象以建造更安全的海堤。