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Why Ocean Waves Break Near Shore — Not Farther Out
为什么海浪只在靠近岸边时才破碎？
精读先不看文字，完整听一遍。
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Waves travel across deep water with little change in shape because orbital motion remains smooth and symmetrical.波浪在深水中传播时形状几乎不变，因为其轨道运动保持平滑且对称。
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As waves enter shallow water, the seabed slows the lower part of the wave while the top keeps moving forward at nearly the same speed.当波浪进入浅水区时，海底会减缓波浪下部的运动，而上部仍以近乎相同的速度向前推进。
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This causes the wave to steepen — its height increases while wavelength shortens — until gravity can no longer hold the crest upright.这导致波浪变陡——波高增大、波长缩短——直至重力无法再维持波峰直立。
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When the wave height exceeds roughly 80% of the water depth, it becomes unstable and collapses forward as white water.当波高超过水深约80%时，波浪失稳，向前崩塌成白浪。
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Sandy beaches cause gradual breaking, while rocky shores or reefs often produce plunging or surging breakers depending on slope.沙滩使波浪逐渐破碎，而岩质海岸或珊瑚礁则因坡度不同，常形成卷碎波或激增波。
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Tides, wind, and underwater topography all influence where and how waves break — making surf forecasting both art and science.潮汐、风力和海底地形共同影响波浪破碎的位置与方式，使冲浪预报既是一门艺术，也是一门科学。
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Surfers watch wave period and swell direction to predict quality, relying on physics that begins thousands of kilometers offshore.冲浪者通过观测波浪周期和涌浪方向来预测浪况优劣，其依据的物理过程始于数千公里外的远海。
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Coastal engineers model breaker dynamics to design seawalls, restore beaches, and protect habitats from erosion.海岸工程师通过模拟破浪动力学，设计防波堤、修复海滩并保护栖息地免受侵蚀。
精读 · 大约 10 分钟
听 → 读 → 学表达 → 懂 → 今天会说这一句 → 跟读录音 → 自己说一句。
③ 学 · 重点表达
- Coastal engineers model breaker dynamics to design seawalls, restore beaches, and protect habitats from erosion. 海岸工程师通过模拟破浪动力学，设计防波堤、修复海滩并保护栖息地免受侵蚀。
- Waves travel across deep water with little change in shape because orbital motion remains smooth and symmetrical. 波浪在深水中传播时形状几乎不变，因为其轨道运动保持平滑且对称。
- As waves enter shallow water, the seabed slows the lower part of the wave while the top keeps moving forward at nearly the same speed. 当波浪进入浅水区时，海底会减缓波浪下部的运动，而上部仍以近乎相同的速度向前推进。
④ 懂 · 选一选
⑤ 今天会说这一句
Coastal engineers model breaker dynamics to design seawalls, restore beaches, and protect habitats from erosion.
⑥ 跟读并录音
Coastal engineers model breaker dynamics to design seawalls, restore beaches, and protect habitats from erosion.
第一版：录下来、回听、再听标准音。系统打分以后再加。
⑦ 说 · 自己来一句
用今天的表达，自己说一句。
例子：Coastal engineers model breaker dynamics to design seawalls, restore beaches, and protect habitats from erosion.
已记下。连续天数以后会显示在课表里。
陈老师指导
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